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    EL
    Earnings call· Jun 2025(Q4 FY25)

    ESTEE LAUDER COMPANIES INC EL

    Aug 20, 2025 Source

    Executive summary

    The Estée Lauder Companies Q4 FY25 — Return to Growth and Margin Expansion Ahead

    The Estée Lauder Companies concluded FY25 in line with revised expectations, demonstrating initial momentum from its "Beauty Reimagined" strategy. The company is focused on returning to top-line growth and solid double-digit operating margins in the coming years, driven by strategic channel expansion, transformative innovation, and significant cost savings from the PRGP. While challenges persist in travel retail and parts of Europe, management expressed confidence in the FY26 outlook, supported by share gains in key markets and a more balanced channel mix.

    Highlights

    5
    • Gross margin expanded 230 basis points to 74% for FY25, beating May's outlook by 50 bps.

    • Gained prestige beauty share in China, Japan, and the U.S. in the second half of FY25.

    • Online organic sales growth accelerated from low single-digit in H1 to mid-single-digit in H2 FY25, reaching 31% of reported sales.

    • FY26 outlook projects low single-digit organic sales growth and operating margin expansion of 165 basis points at the midpoint.

    • AI-driven media campaigns in North America showed a 31% increase in ROI.

    Concerns

    5
    • Organic sales declined 8% for FY25, with nearly two-thirds from travel retail's 28% decrease.

    • Operating margin contracted 220 basis points to 8% for FY25.

    • Diluted EPS decreased 42% for FY25.

    • Net cash flow from operating activities decreased to $1.3 billion in FY25 from $2.4 billion in FY24.

    • Tariff-related headwinds are expected to impact profitability by approximately $100 million in FY26.

    Guidance & targets

    16
    CategoryTargetConfidence
    Organic net sales growth
    flat to up 3%
    high materiality
    High
    Operating margin
    9.4% to 9.9%
    high materiality
    High
    Diluted EPS
    $1.90 to $2.10
    high materiality
    High
    Net cash flows from operating activities
    $1 billion to $1.1 billion
    medium materiality
    High
    Capital expenditures
    approximately 4% of sales
    medium materiality
    High
    Effective tax rate
    approximately 36%
    medium materiality
    High
    Innovation as % of sales
    over 25%
    medium materiality
    High
    Innovation launched in less than a year
    16%
    medium materiality
    High
    Global travel retail organic net sales
    return to growth at the midpoint of outlook
    high materiality
    Medium
    Mainland China net growth
    mid-single-digit
    high materiality
    High
    Rest of business organic net sales growth
    low single-digit
    medium materiality
    Medium
    Q1 FY26 organic net sales
    down low single digits to slightly positive
    high materiality
    High
    Q1 FY26 global travel retail organic net sales growth
    high single-digit
    medium materiality
    High
    Q1 FY26 Mainland China organic net sales growth
    return to solid growth
    medium materiality
    High
    Q1 FY26 remainder of business organic net sales growth
    moderate decline
    medium materiality
    Medium
    Operating margin
    solid double-digit
    high materiality
    High

    Segment performance

    5
    SegmentRevenueYoYQoQMargin
    Company-wide
    Organic net sales declined 13% in the fourth quarter, reflecting declines across all product categories except fragrance, and across every geographic region, primarily driven by global travel retail.
    -13%
    Travel Retail
    Organic sales decreased 28% in FY25, driven by strategic decisions and prolonged weak conversion. Travel retail represented 15% of reported sales in FY25, down 4 percentage points from FY24.
    Percentage of reported sales: 15% (FY25)Change in percentage of reported sales: -4 percentage points (from FY24)
    -28%
    Online
    Online organic sales growth accelerated from low single-digit in H1 FY25 to mid-single-digit in H2 FY25. Online reached 31% of reported sales for FY25, up 3 percentage points from FY24, an all-time record.
    Percentage of reported sales: 31% (FY25)Change in percentage of reported sales: +3 percentage points (from FY24)H1 FY25 organic sales growth: low single-digit
    mid-single-digit (H2 FY25)
    Mainland China
    Gained prestige beauty share in H2 FY25. Contributed to high single-digit retail sales growth and share gain in Q3 and Q4 FY25, solidifying share gains for the fiscal year with every category improving share. 10 brands grew at retail in Q4 FY25.
    mid-single-digit (retail sales, H2 FY25)
    Fragrance
    The only product category to show growth in Q4 FY25.
    positive

    Operational metrics

    17
    Gross margin
    74%+230 bps YoY
    FY25

    Achieved despite significant volume deleverage.

    Gross margin
    relatively flat
    Q4 FY25

    Even with the steepest sales volume decline of the year.

    Operating margin
    8%-220 bps YoY
    FY25

    Driven by sales declines and increased consumer-facing investments.

    Operating margin
    4%vs 9% last year
    Q4 FY25

    Driven by a 580 basis points increase in consumer-facing investments as a percentage of sales.

    Diluted EPS
    $0.09vs $0.64 last year
    Q4 FY25

    Reflects the quarter's performance.

    Consumer-facing investments
    +400 bpsYoY
    FY25

    Increased as a percentage of sales to fuel growth and long-term value creation.

    Non-consumer-facing costs reduction
    6%YoY
    Q4 FY25

    Enabled by PRGP initiatives.

    Effective tax rate
    38.8%vs 31% last year
    FY25

    Reflects a higher effective tax rate on foreign operations due to geographical mix of earnings and unfavorable impact from stock-based compensation.

    Capital expenditure
    $602Mdown 34% YoY
    FY25

    Reflected prior year payments relating to the manufacturing facility in Japan and focus on optimizing CapEx.

    Impairment charges
    $425M
    Q4 FY25

    Relating to Dr.Jart+ due to challenges in Mainland China and Korea, and Too Faced due to continued underperformance.

    Restructuring charges
    $610M
    cumulative as of June 30

    Primarily in employee-related costs.

    AI ROI increase
    31%
    current

    Driven by personalized marketing and media optimization, enabling faster decision-making.

    Employee headcount reduction
    3,000+
    current

    Part of the PRGP restructuring to rightsize the business.

    Global prestige beauty market growth
    2% to 3%improvement vs FY25
    FY26

    Assumption for FY26, with early signs of stabilization in Mainland China but weak travel retail conversion and challenges in the West.

    Tariff impact on profitability
    $100M
    FY26

    Net of planned mitigation strategies, expected to impact profitability.

    Emerging markets sales mix
    10%
    FY25

    Represents 10% of reported sales, with significant untapped potential.

    North America retail vs. net sales gap
    5 percentage points
    FY25

    Expected to narrow throughout FY26, but a greater disconnect is anticipated in Q1 FY26.

    Industry KPIs

    10
    MetricValueDetails
    Channel mix31%%
    Portfolio rotation
    Underlying sales growthlow single-digit%
    Power brands contribution
    Brand marketing investment+400 bpsbps
    Market volume growth benchmark2% to 3%%
    Market value share by geographygained
    Productivity cost savings programexceeded 50%%
    Developed vs emerging market split10%%
    Underlying operating margin bridge165 bpsbps

    Product announcements

    16
    ProductTypeDetails
    The Ordinary Sulfur 10% Powder-to-Cream Concentratelaunch
    Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair eye creamlaunch
    Re-Nutriv watery lotionlaunch
    M·A·C Lipglazer Glossy Linerlaunch
    Bobbi Brown's Cashmere Luxe Matte Lipsticklaunch
    TOM FORD Architecture Radiance Hydrating Foundationlaunch
    Jo Malone London's Raspberry Ripplelaunch
    TOM FORD Oud Voyagerlaunch
    TOM FORD Black Orchid Reservelaunch
    Aramis Intuitionlaunch
    La Mer Balancing Treatment Lotionlaunch
    Clinique Supercharged SPF DDMLlaunch
    The Ordinary UV Filters SPF 45 serumlaunch
    Clinique Almost Lipstick (Nude Honey shade)launch
    M·A·C Born Famous commercial innovation paired with Lipglass Airlaunch
    Aveda Miraculous Oillaunch

    Deals & partnerships

    5
    Amazon Premium BeautyBrand launches on e-commerce platform

    The Ordinary, Origins, and Aveda launched in the U.S. Amazon Premium Beauty store in Q3/Q4 FY25. Estée Lauder and Aveda opened in the Amazon Premium Beauty store in Canada. The Ordinary launched in Amazon U.K. in July, and Clinique in Amazon Mexico in August.

    Shopee and TikTok ShopExpansion in Southeast Asia e-commerce platforms

    Built scales on Shopee and TikTok Shop across Q3 and Q4 FY25 in Southeast Asia.

    Duty Free AmericasDistribution expansion in travel retail

    Greatly expanding presence in the Americas through all-new distribution with Duty Free Americas.

    SephoraRetail launch for The Ordinary in China

    Powered The Ordinary's successful launch in China with Sephora.

    TmallAI-powered flagship store launch

    The Ordinary launched on Tmall in China with a breakthrough service, the first AI-powered flagship store co-developed with Tmall.

    Risks & headwinds

    6
    Travel retail volatility and weak conversionFY25, ongoing into FY26

    Travel retail decreased 28% in FY25, representing nearly two-thirds of the 8% organic sales decline.

    Mitigation: Strategic decision to reduce exposure to reseller activity, healthier trade inventory, new team in place focused on accelerating retail, expanding distribution in Americas and Europe.

    Subdued consumer sentiment in the WestOngoing into FY26

    Sequential slowing in prestige beauty across main markets in Europe, particularly France and Germany.

    Mitigation: Expanding consumer coverage, deploying more innovation, increasing media investment to recruit new consumers, focusing on strong fragrance performance.

    Tariff-related headwindsFY26

    Approximately $100 million impact on profitability in FY26.

    Mitigation: Leveraging available trade programs, optimizing regional manufacturing footprint, PRGP initiatives, potential pricing actions.

    Higher effective tax rate due to geographical mix of earningsFY25, Q1 FY26

    FY25 effective tax rate of 38.8% vs 31% last year. Q1 FY26 expected at 40%.

    Mitigation: Expect improvement over the course of FY26 as profitability builds, monitoring global tax legislations.

    Peak in restructuring paymentsFY26

    Net cash flow from operating activities expected to be $1.0B-$1.1B in FY26, a slight decline from FY25.

    Mitigation: Strong focus on managing working capital to mitigate pressures.

    Underperformance of specific brands/geographiesQ4 FY25

    $425 million impairment charges relating to Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced.

    Mitigation: Working with teams in Korea and Mainland China for Dr.Jart+, and addressing underperformance in geographies and channels for Too Faced.

    What to watch in Q1 FY26

    5

    North America retail vs. net sales gap

    Q1 FY26 and throughout FY26
    Current5 percentage points (FY25)
    Targetnarrowing

    Why it matters

    Closing this gap is crucial for translating retail growth into reported net sales and improving overall financial performance.

    While we expect the gap to narrow throughout the year, a greater disconnect is anticipated in the first quarter.

    Q&A highlights

    5

    How much progress has been made on simplifying the organizational structure under Beauty Reimagined, what changes are left, and how is the organization handling the cultural shift?

    Management is very pleased with the progress, noting the new leadership team is almost complete with the upcoming R&D head announcement. The consolidation of seven regions into four and the shift of P&L responsibility to regions are in place. Extensive communication and alignment of compensation are driving engagement and execution speed, leading to early positive results like share gains.

    I would say, in conclusion, frankly, very happy with the progress that we are making, the speed at which we are making. I think Dara, you mentioned, obviously, the culture is evolving and is changing, but we are really pushing on ambition and accountability throughout every, I would say, pillars of brands and regions and function of the organization.

    asked by Dara Mohsenian · answered by Stephane de la Faverie

    3 min read6 chapters

    Detailed Narrative

    01

    Beauty Reimagined Progress and Organizational Transformation

    The company made strong initial progress across all five action plan priorities of "Beauty Reimagined" in the second half of fiscal '25. This included accelerating best-in-class consumer coverage, creating transformative innovation, boosting consumer-facing investment, fueling sustainable growth through bold efficiencies, and reimagining the way they work. The organizational structure has been significantly transformed, with a new leadership team in place and the consolidation of seven regions into four, with P&L responsibility moving to regions as of July 1. Management expressed satisfaction with the speed of execution and cultural adoption, noting that compensation is being aligned to reward the execution of Beauty Reimagined.

    02

    Channel Expansion and Digital Acceleration

    A key focus has been expanding consumer coverage, particularly online. The Ordinary, Origins, and Aveda launched on Amazon Premium Beauty in the U.S., with Estée Lauder and Aveda expanding to Canada. The Ordinary also launched on Amazon U.K. and Clinique on Amazon Mexico in July/August. Expansion on Shopee and TikTok Shop in Southeast Asia, and Tmall/Douyin in China, contributed to online organic sales accelerating to mid-single-digit growth in H2 FY25. Online sales reached a record 31% of reported sales for FY25, up 3 percentage points from FY24. The company also expanded into pharmacy channels in Europe and Latin America with Clinique.

    03

    Innovation Pipeline and Strategy

    The company introduced a robust slate of innovation in H2 FY25 and has a strong pipeline for FY26, targeting innovation to represent over 25% of sales. The goal is to triple the percentage of innovation launched in less than a year from 10% to 30%, with 16% expected in FY26. Innovation is realigned to deliver gross margin accretive products quicker, capturing trends in skin care (night, longevity, derms), makeup, luxury fragrance, and hair care. Examples include La Mer's Balancing Treatment Lotion, Clinique's Supercharged SPF DDML, The Ordinary's UV Filters SPF 45 serum, and new launches in M·A·C, Bobbi Brown, TOM FORD, Jo Malone London, and the relaunch of Aramis.

    04

    Geographic Performance and Outlook

    In Q4 FY25, organic net sales declined across all product categories except fragrance, and across every geographic region, primarily due to global travel retail. However, the company gained prestige beauty share in China, Japan, and the U.S. in H2 FY25. China is showing encouraging signs of stabilization with mid-single-digit retail sales growth and share gains in H2 FY25. North America is improving sequentially, with market share gains in July. Europe, particularly France and Germany, is experiencing a slowdown in consumer sentiment. Emerging markets, representing 10% of reported sales, are targeted for double-digit growth in FY26.

    05

    PRGP Benefits and Cost Discipline

    The Profit Recovery and Growth Plan (PRGP) significantly exceeded expectations in FY25, driving 230 basis points of gross margin expansion despite sales deleverage. In FY26, PRGP is expected to deliver meaningful cost savings, primarily from non-consumer-facing expenses, to fund incremental consumer-facing investments. The company has recorded $610 million in cumulative restructuring charges as of June 30 and has reduced over 3,000 employee positions, with further initiatives planned for outsourcing and procurement optimization in outer years. The focus is on leveraging PRGP to improve margins and profitability while fueling brand growth.

    06

    Portfolio Review and Tariff Mitigation

    The company has engaged external advisors to review its portfolio, aiming to align with the "Beauty Reimagined" vision and focus on high-return opportunities. Updates will be shared in due course. Regarding tariffs, the company expects a $100 million headwind to profitability in FY26, net of mitigation strategies. These strategies include leveraging trade programs and optimizing the regional manufacturing footprint to bring production closer to consumers, offsetting more than half of the expected impact. Additional strategies like PRGP initiatives and potential pricing actions are being evaluated.

    AI-generated summary of the company’s earnings call. Not investment advice.